TAKE A HOLY LAND PILGRIMAGE
ISRAEL • BETHLEHEM • JORDAN
A travelogue of some of our amazing pilgrimage experiences in the Holy Land.
Join Us on Our Upcoming Holy Land Pilgrimage
Come with us to the Holy Land, where you’ll get to visit many of the places we include in The Faithful Traveler in the Holy Land TV series and in our new series The Faithful Traveler: A Papal Pilgrimage in the Holy Land.
Renewing Vows at Cana
The second day of our Holy Land pilgrimage was probably the easiest, as we only had 3 places to go–and one was at the beach!
The day started off quickly. We had a spectacular breakfast at our gorgeous hotel, The Olive Tree Hotel in Jerusalem, and then we were off to Cana, just outside of Nazareth, where the married couples would renew their wedding vows at the Wedding Church.
Tradition holds that it was here, where Jesus performed his first miracle, at the request of his Mother, turning water into wine.
In the Fourth Century, Empress Helena, the mother of the Emperor Constantine, built a church here. The remains of this church were found in the 17th century, and the Franciscans began building the present church in 1879.
Here’s a cool fact about Cana. Did you know it was the hometown of the Apostle Bartholomew? I didn’t know that. 🙂
So, the day started off as sort of a blur. I think I was still getting my “sea legs”. We walked into the church and, as I remember, Cardinal Rigali had already begun the ceremony of the renewal of vows.
We wanted to get David and I renewing our vows on camera, and had it all planned out, but we got there late, and I didn’t know where Sonja was… it was a mess. But I figured we were there to renew our vows, so I just went ahead and did it. Fortunately, when the time came, Sony found us, and we got it on tape. Phew!
I particularly loved the beautiful painting above the tabernacle in the church.
Look at how Mary slightly bows before her Son. I love it!
Renewing our vows was somewhat surreal. I mean, almost 8 years ago, I married this man in a small suburb of Philadelphia. And now, here we were, in Cana, no less!
Renewing our vows with the Archbishop of Philadelphia! AND, one of priests who originally married us, Monsignor Donald Leighton, was here in Cana with us, too! It was a full circle moment, as some say.
David’s Facebook comment about the ceremony?
“Going to Cana to get married again. Same wife, different country.”
Here’s a pic from our original wedding, btw. Note Father (he wasn’t a monsignor yet) Leighton in the back (with our dear friend, Rev. Stephen Wang).
After the ceremony, we wandered around a bit, looking at the centuries-old foundations of the church, and taking some pix and video. Groups of tourists entered and left the church, and when we were finally ready to go, we walked outside and noticed that everyone from our pilgrimage was GONE! We walked down the hill, hoping to see our buses at the bottom, but no. Nothing.
It was one of my biggest fears–being left behind!
Fortunately, I had set up my phone to make international phone calls, so I called our tour leader and found out they were looking for us. My biggest regret: we didn’t get any video of it! We were in SUCH a panic, we didn’t think, “Hey! this would be REALLY funny to put into the show!”
Lol. Maybe next time.
Kids in Israel
At one point during our pilgrimage to the Holy Land, we had to walk through the Jewish Quarter of Jerusalem to get to the Western Wall. The CUTEST little girl–ok, she was probably 13 or so, she’s the one with the blue backwards cap–came up to me, I’m guessing to ask what we were filming for. But she asked in Hebrew, and as I don’t speak Hebrew, I asked her if she spoke English.
“A leetle,” she said, meekly.
The next thing I knew, I was surrounded by the most adorable, enthusiastic, excited kids. This clip is a snippet from my time with them.
Now, I’m not the best with kids, let me just say. If I hadn’t been so worried about getting everything just right, I might have been able to actually chat with them and find out what it was like to be a kid in Israel. But my mind was racing.
“Watch out for pick pockets… I don’t have anything in my pockets… I don’t think… Our group is leaving us… Don’t step on Sony’s cord… where’s David…”
Ugh. Next time, I’m bringing a Production Assistant.
For now, enjoy this little bit of Israeli LIFE. I love the end. It gives me hope. I hope these kids run for office some day. 🙂
“We want Shalom.” We want peace.
Singing Roosters, Dark Dungeons, and Feet
On the seventh day of our pilgrimage to the Holy Land, my team had a casualty. David stayed in the hotel that day, because his legs had swollen from the knees down, after having fallen on the Via Dolorosa the previous morning. Our pilgrimage was almost over—we only had two days to go—and his swelling was going down slowly, but still, his condition worried me, and set the stage for this day’s events.
Day 7 focused on the sites of Christ’s Passion, which we celebrate today on Good Friday. Why is it GOOD, I always used to wonder? What’s GOOD about Jesus dying? Ha. It reminds me of something a friend once asked after she watched an early version of our episode on the St Rita of Cascia Shrine in Philadelphia: “So, this woman had a thorn in her head that hurt and stank, and that was a blessing?!”
Perhaps the fact that today is Good is what confounds so many people about the Church’s view on suffering. It is good that God suffered and died for us; for without that sacrifice, we’d be doomed. What more need be said?
On this day, we visited the Church of Pater Noster on the Mount of Olives, where Jesus taught his disciples how to pray through the prayer we now call the Our Father. There, surrounded by tiles with the prayer written in languages from around the world, we encountered an eerie foreshadowing of what we’d see later on: we found a tree full of inch-long thorns.
It was from the branch of a tree like this, our guide told us, that the soldiers fashioned Jesus’ painful crown.
From here, we walked to the Church of Dominus Flevit, which means in Latin “The Lord Wept”. The Church was built in the shape of a tear, and has a beautiful window, overlooking the city of Jerusalem.
“As he drew near, he saw the city and wept over it, saying, “If this day you only knew what makes for peace—but now it is hidden from your eyes. For the days are coming upon you when your enemies will raise a palisade against you; they will encircle you and hem you in on all sides. They will smash you to the ground and your children within you, and they will not leave one stone upon another within you because you did not recognize the time of your visitation.” (Luke 19:41-44)
Further down the Mount of Olives, we entered the Garden of Gethsemane, where Jesus went after the Last Supper, and where he was betrayed by Judas.
We learned that many of the trees here were more than 2,000 years old, meaning that these were the VERY trees that witnessed the saddest night in history.
We celebrated Mass inside the absolutely amazing Basilica of the Agony, the Sanctuary of which contains the rock that is believed to have been the rock on which Jesus prayed the night of his betrayal.
I got to kiss the stone twice. It was one of the highlights of the trip for me. I’ve always had a special devotion to the Agony in the Garden. Christ’s words to Peter, James, and John haunt me: “Could you not keep watch for one hour?” (Mk 14:37) We ask so much of God. Is an hour of our time too much to give back to him; in adoration, during Mass, on a daily basis?
Then, we went to the Church of St Peter in Gallicantu*, the Church built on top of the palace of Caiaphas, the High Priest. It was here that Jesus was condemned by the Sanhedrin, where he was imprisoned overnight,
and where St Peter denied Christ three times.
“Gallicantu” comes from the Latin for “cock crow”; “galli” refers to the rooster or cock (in Spanish, its gallo) and “cantu” refers to his crow or song (in Spanish, canto is song).
I love this sign, because it is so seemingly innocuous and cute. “Roosters this way!” it says cheerfully. But in reality, it says, “This way for the spot where the first pope, where the Rock on which this Church was built, where one of the beloved and trusted betrayed his Lord and Master, not once, not twice, but three times.”
I can’t help but hear it then ask, “How many times have YOU betrayed him?”
As I said earlier, David’s condition was on my mind that day, as was my worry that we’d be able to get everything we needed to get with only one camera person. But God was good to us on this trip, as I’ve said before. Because a few days earlier, we’d been given the opportunity to film the Mount of Olives and its beautiful vistas when one of the tour guides took my team on an early morning tour.
My worries were lessened as I realize, “Hey! We’ve already shot this!” And I was somewhat able to enter into the story behind the locations we visited.
But at the Church of St Peter in Gallicantu, I was still a little discombobulated, to be quite honest. It is hard to focus when you’re trying to make sure you get everything you need for the camera, and I was snapping away with mine. I saw this sign
and thought, “Ooh! I might need that later to remind me of what I saw!”
But I didn’t read it.
Next thing I know, we’re in a tiny cave, and Father Donovan is reading something or praying something, and Cardinal Rigali says something, and the next thing I know, the lights go out, and I’m confused…
‘Did they do that on purpose?’ I thought. ‘Ha! Someone accidentally shut the lights out!’ (It’s amazing how fast your mind works, because this all happened—I kid you not—in about a second.)
And then, the sudden wail from a pilgrim snapped me into focus. This was a place of pain. A place of sorrow. This was where Jesus spent the night of Holy Thursday, after having been betrayed by almost everyone He loved, after having been rejected by those He came to save, after having been accused of all number of ridiculous things, and abused in all number of ways, THIS was where He spent the night.
In the darkness. In the cold.
I want to believe that the angels came and kept him company this night. But who knows. Maybe He was denied that consolation, too, to make His sacrifice more perfect.
And that wail of sorrow suddenly made more sense than any worry I had about the show or David or anything. Talk about putting things in perspective.
As I lay in bed last night and thought about the day’s events, in 2011 and 2011 years ago, again my mind raced. The night starts off so quietly: Christ has dinner, and then proceeds to wash the feet of His disciples. But He doesn’t just wash their feet, He tells them, “If I, therefore, the master and teacher, have washed your feet, you ought to wash one another’s feet.” (Jn 13:14)
When I heard this at Mass, my simple, childish, and absolutely 100% Diana reaction was, “Ugh! I HATE FEET!” I do. I have feet issues. I think they’re nasty. Not that I don’t appreciate my feet… I do. But… suffice it to say I have some serious feet issues. And I thought, ‘Seriously? I have to WASH OTHER PEOPLE’S FEET?!’ And then I thought about St Francis and the leper. Have you heard the story? It’s a good one.
I would say that St. Francis felt the same way about lepers as I do about feet—didn’t like ‘em, and certainly didn’t want to TOUCH them! This was a societal thing—leprosy was a horrible disease, and people who had it had to ring a bell to let people know they were coming! (So sad!)
The Vatican website has an awesome telling of this story here, saying, “So greatly loathsome was the sight of lepers to him at one time, he used to say, that, in the days of his vanity, he would look at their houses only from a distance of two miles and he would hold his nostrils with his hands.”
But one day, Francis encountered a leper and it changed his life. I’m sure, if we were to translate Francis’s initial thought into modern parlance, it would be something like, “ Ugh! Can I run and hide? No! Darn! He SAW ME!” You know the scenario.
I love how this website explains his response: “[I]n a decisive moment of illumination, Francis suddenly perceived in this leper the embodiment of God’s beauty, a human being to be loved and cared for tenderly.”
And he kissed him.
So, on this night, just before He takes our sins upon Himself and dies for our redemption, God Himself gives us a new Commandment:
“[L]ove one another. As I have loved you, so you also should love one another. This is how all will know that you are my disciples, if you have love for one another.” (Jn 13:34-35)
Notice how he doesn’t say, “People will know you are my disciples by how many prayers you know, or by how often you go to Mass, or by how pious you seem, or by what you wear, or by how you look or __________ (insert other silly nonsense here).”
But by whether you have love for one another.
And sometimes, loving your “neighbor” is as hard as kissing a leper or washing someone’s feet. It’s forgiving the woman who told you she needed to sit in your seat in church because she had to do a reading, and then she never ended up reading anything. It’s forgiving the driver who almost caused you to hit her with your car head on because she turned in front of you and then stopped in the middle of the road. It’s forgiving the people who ________ (insert other silly nonsense here).
Today is Good Friday, and today, the sorrow continues and grows in intensity. Today at 3 pm, we commemorate the death of our Savior. And if we do go to church and pray and cry and sing, we also must walk out and love and LOVE and forgive. Because if we don’t do both, it’s all meaningless.
Have a GOOD Good Friday everyone.
“If I speak in human and angelic tongues but do not have love, I am a resounding gong or a clashing cymbal.
And if I have the gift of prophecy and comprehend all mysteries and all knowledge; if I have all faith so as to move mountains but do not have love, I am nothing.
If I give away everything I own, and if I hand my body over so that I may boast but do not have love, I gain nothing.”
(1 Corinthians 13:1-3)
Holy Thursday in the Holy Land
Since today is Holy Thursday, I thought I’d take an early detour from my sporadic blogging about our pilgrimage and jump to Day 6—the day we visited the Upper Room, where the Last Supper is said to have taken place and where Jesus instituted the Eucharist and the Priesthood.
The Upper Room, or Cenacle (from the Latin words for dinner (cena)) was a bit of a blur. I remember being surprised when I learned that the Upper Room was not only where the Last Supper took place and where Jesus washed the feet of his Disciples, but also where the Apostles and the Blessed Mother stayed during the days after Jesus was crucified, and where Pentecost took place—where the Holy Spirit descended upon everyone present.
Wikipedia says “The building has experienced numerous cycles of destruction and reconstruction, culminating in the Gothic structure which stands today.” And I think that’s sort of what made my visit there feel a bit blurry. This is one of the many places in the Holy Land that are not what they once were. This is not the room where the Last Supper took place. That building was torn down centuries ago… as was the building that was built on top of those ruins, and the building built on top of the ruins of that building, and so on.
But tradition tells us that the important events we commemorate today took place in a room that was located there. So, it takes a little inner quietness to get to that space, where you can look past the Gothic style of the building and the stained glass windows that show that this room used to be a mosque… and see this.
I think Tintoretto’s Last Supper is the best. While everyone’s clothes might not be historically accurate, I love the angels. I also love the way the room—or the look of the room—doesn’t matter. Because, in truth, it doesn’t matter where this took place, but that it took place.
I’m not going to attempt to explain the significance of the events we commemorate today. That’s been done by people of greater intelligence and holiness than me (or is it I? I told you I wasn’t that smart… LOL). I will be reading them today, though—Fulton Sheen’s Life of Christ, Pope Benedict XVI’s Jesus Christ, Part II. And I’ll be going to Mass tonight at 7:30, and probably sobbing the entire time.
I guess the best thing I can say about today, and the holy days that we’re entering into, is that I am grateful. I mean, think about it: Jesus knew what was about to happen to him, and yet he still had the composure to have this dinner, to celebrate and institute the Eucharist, to make men he knew were about to leave him in fear his first priests.
He knows how silly we are. And yet He still loves us. He still decided to die for us in such a horrific manner. He knew every betrayal that would happen from then until the end of time, and yet He did it anyway.
Aside from being grateful, it also makes me think, am I as forgiving of others as He is of me? Because I know how often I fail, and yet I still have the nerve to approach that sanctuary and take Communion.
Holy Land Pilgrimage, Day 1
We left the US around midnight on March 25th—the Feast of the Annunciation, the anniversary of our engagement (David and me), and… oddly enough, the day that the ONE RING was unmade in Mordor… yes, I am a Tolkien dork… plus I had been watching The Lord of the Rings movies to unwind. 🙂
Ok, before I go on about this trip, let me just tell you about how awesome God is. And I mean this in all sincerity.
As you may know, priests around the world have been having some issues. Heck, the Church is having issues. This is not new, as is most eloquently stated by Archbishop Timothy Dolan in a recent blog post which you MUST read! But I told God before we left that I would be offering up all of my sufferings on this trip for priests in our archdiocese and around the world, in reparation for sins and for healing for victims. Well, let me tell you, HE TOOK ME UP ON THAT! Now, we didn’t get struck with any horrific maladies during this trip, but I was beset by little issues throughout our trip, which made it SO HARD for me to work. (Yes, I whined… thank God David was patient with me!) This is what we got:
- I contracted The Super Cold, which kept me coughing and blowing my nose all trip long. I feel so bad for everyone on my bus. They are probably STILL hearing my cough… it may be the soundtrack of their trip!
- I left behind a drawerful of cough drops that David bought me because I didn’t like the flavors…! (Yeah, I deserved to be in pain….)
- I lost my voice for 2 days—which was ridiculous, considering I had to be in front of the camera…
- I didn’t sleep on the plane over.
- I had a 3-day tension headache that made any movement exceedingly painful.
- I had a crick in my neck for two days.
- David FELL on the Via Dolorosa!! (He’s ok, thank God.) And that night, both of his legs swelled below the knee, which put him out of commission for the following day!
As our beloved bus captain, Father Donovan said, “Pilgrimages to the Holy Land aren’t for sissies!” And boy, was he right! But, you know, during the pain of it all, two things kept going through my mind.
One was “quit complaining and get going, girl! You’ve got a job to do!” And for the most part, the only time I could wallow in my pain was in the morning when I woke up—I distinctly remember one morning thinking, “This trip is going to kill me!” (LOL)—and at night, when I went to bed and prayed I could sleep in between coughs.
The second thought can best be illustrated by our day on the Via Dolorosa. I was having some serious cold issues that day: my lungs were filled with a noxious substance and I could barely breathe. But as I walked those uneven streets in the morning light, I thought, “Jesus’ lungs were filled with blood on this road, and that wasn’t even the HALF of what he had to endure.” And that made my pain… not necessarily meaningless, but LESS. I knew at that moment, and certainly after discovering that poor David had fallen, that no matter what we were dealing with, Jesus had dealt with it, too. He fell on that street. In fact, He fell three times. But He didn’t just fall. He was carrying a ginormous cross on his shoulders, He’d just been whipped like crazy. People were yelling at him and spitting on him and hitting him…. He was half naked. He had a crown of thorns on his head… Blood and sweat were probably clouding his vision… Oh, and his lungs were filling with blood.
I mean, seriously! WHAT DID I HAVE TO COMPLAIN ABOUT?!
That is probably the biggest “lesson” I learned during this trip: the recognition that when we unite our sufferings to HIS… He helps us with them and makes them easier to carry.
So, yeah. He is awesome.
We arrived at Tel Aviv’s Ben Gurion airport around 2 pm on March 26th, and we immediately boarded a bunch of busses to our first stop, Haifa and THE MOUNT CARMEL! Wait. Let me say it again:
WE WENT TO THE MOUNT CARMEL!
It really was hard to believe that I was about to set foot on Mount Carmel. I know… I know… I keep saying it. But after a lifetime of loving the Carmelite spirituality and Carmelite saints—particularly Teresa of Avila and Thérèse of Lisieux—I couldn’t wait to see where it all began.
This was also the beginning of the recognition that, although we were visiting sites that were so historically significant, it made most of our other trips seem like visits to Disneyland, the actual locations looked nothing like they did when the historically significant acts took place. So, for instance, Mount Carmel didn’t really look like the Mount Carmel in my imagination, or like the Mount Carmel seen by Elijah. Neither did the place of Christ’s birth, where he was crucified, where he resurrected. It had all changed so much, that you almost had to close your eyes and IMAGINE what it looked like back then.
And that makes me think of something our trusty camerasuperwoman, Sonja Stark asked me about during the trip: when do you FEEL something special in these places?
I’ve been thinking about that a LOT since she first asked it. Partly because it hadn’t occurred to me; I felt something everywhere I went. Granted, it might not have been The Hand of God, touching my shoulder and saying, “THIS is where IT all happened, girl!” But it was the knowledge that, while the places we visited weren’t holy in and of themselves, something special DID happen there, and that’s why we had made that trek.
Think of it this way… Back in the day, my brother-in-law set up this elaborate plan to propose to my sister. We were all living in San Diego back then, and he wanted to propose at Seaport Village, a nice little area Downtown that was right by the water. It all went swimmingly, and they went on to live happily ever after. And I am certain that, to this day, Seaport Village holds a place in their hearts that is unmatched by any other. Seaport Village is SPECIAL to them, not because of what it is, but because of what happened there.
That is why Christians go to the Holy Land. That is also why Jews find this land holy, as do Muslims. Not because of the land itself, but because of what HAPPENED there.
This is the land where God lowered Himself and became a man, born in a dirty little manger to a young girl and an older gentleman who said the most significant yeses of all humanity. This is the land where God established His Church, where He chose his first disciples, where they lived, ate, laughed, and fished. This is the land where saints were made, where martyrs gave their lives; where God ultimately died a horrific death to save us from our sins.
How could this land NOT be special to us?
Sure, it looks little like what it did when HE walked the earth. But it hums with his footsteps. The water sings with the memory of his touch. The trees still shudder at the memory of what they saw that fateful night.
Our belief in this, the Greatest Story Ever Told, is what makes this land special. It is our remembrance of these events, and our belief that they are true that gives us that FEELING that Sony was waiting for. And it is this feeling that we bring home with us; the feeling that we are compelled to share with others in the hopes that they, too, might some day make the trek to see the place where it all began.
This is what I hope to communicate in the episodes of The Faithful Traveler that I will be creating from our trip. Please pray that He guides my hand. I know that He will.
Because He is awesome.
We’re Going to the Holy Land
Well. Talk about God answering your prayers, and then some.
If you’ve been following our blog, you may have been wondering where we’ve been. In brief, since The Faithful Traveler debuted on EWTN in March 2010, we’ve been waiting to see if God would enable us to produce any future seasons of The Faithful Traveler for EWTN. (Basically, we’ve been waiting to find out how we can do it, financially. These things cost money, as you may well know.)
It’s been almost a year, and believe it or not, we’re nowhere closer to an answer than we were a year ago. Yes, it’s disappointing, but what can you do? (Email EWTN and tell them you want more of The Faithful Traveler? It couldn’t hurt!)
So, we’ve been getting on without lives. Working at our full-time jobs, doing things around the house. My mom and dad came to visit from San Diego for the Christmas holiday. That was nice.
Things changed sometime in early December, when I got an email that intrigued me. To make a very long and nail-biting story short and sweet, we’re going to the Holy Land, and we’re taking our cameras with us.
Our Archbishop, Cardinal Justin Rigali, wanted to go on an Archdiocesan pilgrimage to the Holy Land, and so the Archdiocese made it happen. The tour company that is putting this all together, Select International Tours, contacted us about filming the pilgrimage. EWTN loved the idea, and so, a special series of international episodes of The Faithful Traveler will be coming to a TV set near you sometime in the next year.
Isn’t that exciting? (That’s about the biggest understatement…)
Originally, we were supposed to go to Egypt and visit Mount Sinai and the Monastery of St Catharine. That would have been awesome, but, well, you know what’s been going on in Egypt these days. So that doesn’t look like it will be happening. But still! We’re going to the Holy Land! I never thought I’d say it! I never even dreamed it would happen! And here I am, going over my equipment, and reading up on the area and its history as much as I can.
We leave on March 25th–the Feast of the Annunciation, and the anniversary of our engagement. We’ll be there for about 10 days, and the itinerary is packed! It’s going to be a lot of run and gun shooting, and I’m nervous as all get out.
You’ll pray for us, won’t you?
Fortunately, I won’t be going alone. David, my husband and camera/sound/lighting man, is coming, as is Sony, our trusty second camerawoman. Although she’s never been to the Holy Land, she’s traveled the world with that camera of hers, and her fearless enthusiasm will be a nice balance for my nail-biting fastidiousness. I’m thrilled to be able to introduce her to a new part of the world!
After this trip, who knows? EWTN still has to decide if we can do another season of the US-based show. And if things go well with this trip, perhaps Select International will consider sponsoring us on other international trips! So, the possibilities, for now, seem promising.
At any rate, be sure to check us out on Facebook, if you subscribe. I’m sure I’ll be posting little updates while we’re on our trip, and will do my best to update the blog when I come home. But please do keep us in your prayers. As I said to someone last night, I’m equal parts excited and panicked. Excited, because this is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and panicked, because of the same reason. We either get the shot, or we don’t. I trust in Him, that He’ll help us out. But I’ll take all the prayers we can get. 🙂
(Oh, and if you still haven’t bought your copy of our 2-DVD set of the entire first season, you still can! Thirteen half-hour episodes for just $24.95 is a steal! That’s $1.91 an episode! I bought a Catholic DVD the other day that was twice the price of ours, and which only included a 1-hour show!)